More Calabria

Dec 25

While staying at the agriturismo apartment we went on several expeditions. The place was so large and comfortable we also hung out there for a good deal of one day. It was olive harvest time, so we were fortunate to see a bit of the family and some helpers gathering olives. The best part of that was that our house gifted us with a little jar of freshly pressed oil! We have never tasted such fresh oil. It had a unique flavor, peppery and deep. The color was beautiful too!

Aerial view of Timpa Bianca, from the host’s Airbnb listing. Click the picture to go to my video walk-through of the apartment.

View from the terrace. Bombile is straight across, at the top of the ridge.

Reflecting time on the terrace.

One of their cats made themselves at home.

By the pool, their dog came to visit.

Gorgeous new pool the owners had done.

One of the very old olive trees.

One of the many kittens rolling on the chalky soil.

Fresh persimmons I picked from their trees!

Another gorgeous view to orchards and hills.

Olive harvest time!

The nets on the ground capture the olives shaken from the trees.

The dog being helpful?

Fruits of the harvest.

The ultra-fresh oil our host gave us.

Beautiful color, deep aroma, tasted amazing!

On the road in and out of Timpa Bianca, sheep.

Also near Timpa Bianca, "Casino del Principe", 17th-18th centuries.

Gerace

Our host recommended we visit the town of Gerace, about a half hour away. More steep, winding roads with views alternating mountains and sea with each turn got us to the destination. It was definitely worth the visit. Another 10th century Norman castle ruins to ooh and ahh at!

On the road to Gerace.

More windy roads in mountainous terrain!

The plaque says it's from the 10th century.

Kind of amazing any part of it still stands.

The view stretches to the Ionian Sea.

They don't want you to get lost!

The citadel of Gerace, much newer than the castle.

A lovely little town, not too busy in October.

Cats, always, around the villages.

Lovely maintained buildings, gorgeous views.

We need to drive down this street?

Yep, that's the way out!

Dasà

I follow a YouTube channel called Pasta Grammar, and a young couple, Italian wife and American husband have an Italian cooking show— a Calabrian cooking show, to be exact. Ava is from this small village in Calabria, and she and her husband Harper moved to Dasà last spring. I learned they give cooking classes and tours of their village, and as we were going to be so close, we signed up to take the pasta class. Dasà is midway between the villages of each of my great-grandparents, and we chose to go from the Ardore side of the peninsula. It was a 1-1/2 hour drive. It was a priceless experience, and I’d definitely consider going back one day, if the stars aligned!

First stop was the old town mill. Here's the channel where the water comes from.

The mill was for both oil and grain. Water is diverted to each mill.

Gianni was the last person left who worked at the mill. He was a funny, informative guide.

Underneath the water channels.

Explaining this is where the water came in to power the millstones.

The grain millstones– granite from France.

Demonstrating raising the top stone.

Moving the top stone aside…

Showing how each piece fits together.

The ancient communal clothes washing trough.

The mural depicts women using the trough.

Lovely paving in the center of town.

Nice murals decorated many walls.

Cool old photos adorned many walls.

Ava, on right at back, and one of the nonnas explaining.

Rolling the strips of dough, cutting to size.

Bob forming his first fileja!

We got lots of help from the nonnas!

Some townspeople hanging out with us, waiting for lunch!

My plate of delicious pasta i fagioli.

So many desserts! Fried dough twists and Torta della Nonna. Yumm!

Gianni explains how these trees are 1000s of years old!

After lunch, we were offered a tour of ancient olive orchards.

Amazing how part dies out, but more branches keep growing.

An orchard with the harvest nets down.

Siderno and Monasterace

We drove along the road that parallels the Ionian coast to check out a couple other sights in the area. No beach lounging for us—not our style, but we did manage to walk on a rocky beach at least once! Finding a little museum with Greek artifacts and an active archaelogical dig was a nice experience.